Some East African port details supplied
by the "Cruiser Log" webmaster based on his own observations whilst
cruising the area on sv
SEEROSE. There are many safe ports along this seaboard
but below are a few details of some from personal experience. This
information should be used as a guide only and please confirm any
updates here.
Please remember that the
people of Africa are wonderful, friendly people but are very poor
and will perceive a cruising yacht as hugely wealthy. Violent attacks
on the East African coast are almost unheard of but theft from unattended
yachts can be a problem with outboard motors, food supplies and
money being the prime targets. Just be sensible and enjoy cruising
this wonderful coastline and you will soon find that it is no less
secure than anywhere else in the world.
KENYA:
Tony Britchford, Kenya Net 14.316mhz
at 0500hrs GMT is extremely helpful to cruisers in the Indian Ocean
and along the East African coast and is based at Kilifi Creek.
It is NOT recommended that a yacht
enter the Mombasa port - There are a couple of creeks just North
of Mombasa which are much more user friendly for cruising yachts.
However, should it be necessary to enter the port of Mombasa there
is a yacht club with difficult anchorage (steep drop-off) as shown
on the relevant chart. Security here could be a problem.
Kilifi Creek, Kenya (approx
40 miles North of Mombasa)
This is a well protected creek which is entered through a break
in the outer reef (see relevant chart). It is well worth contacting
Tony Britchford ("Kiore"- VHF channel 16) before entering as he
is very helpful in assisting your passage into the creek. You will
pass under a bridge (70'/21m) and also be careful of the power
line spanning the creek soon after the bridge. There is a small
repair shop and close access to the main Mombasa road where many
local taxi's are available. There is a customs office near the bridge
and then proceed immediately by road to Mombasa to complete immigration
formalities.
Mtwapa Creek, Kenya (approx
20 miles North of Mombasa)
This is a well protected and safe anchorage with good amenities
for cruisers. Fuel and water is available on a dock. The shore-based
resort is owned by a German ex-pat and security is good. Access
to the main Mombasa road is easy. Entrance is through a dog's-leg
channel through the outer reef. The author found the relevant chart
and beacons very accurate. You should enter the channel on an almost
high incoming tide as the current in the channel is strong. Once
into the creek anchor off the restaurant on the starboard bank -
beware the overhanging powerline should you proceed beyond this
point. Proceed directly to Mombasa by road for immigration and a
customs official will call on you at Mtwapa Creek for the cost of
the taxi fare.
TANZANIA
Tanga
05 deg 04' S, 39 deg 06' E. Admiralty chart 866, VHF channel 16/12
As you sail in behind the bluff anchor off the most wonderfully
friendly little yacht club on the port side of the channel just
past the final dog's-leg into the port. DON'T miss this port of
call. Good access from here to the Tanzania safari parks. Customs
and immigration facilities available.
Dar es Salaam
06 deg 49' S, 39 deg 19' E. Admiralty charts: port - 693, approach
- 694, VHF channel 16/12
It is compulsory for yachts to check into the harbor (customs &
immigration facilities) to obtain written permission to move round
to the Dar es Salaam Yacht Club http://kempnet.de/dyc/
. The yacht club is in the bay just North of the port entrance and
it's facilities are unequalled North of Richards Bay, South Africa.
The anchorage there, I'm sure, would be a little uncomfortable during
the NE monsoon but WELL protected from the Southwesterly. A few
cruisers left their yachts here for a flight home. When you depart
Dar es Salaam it is not necessary to sail back into the port - a
taxi ride into Dar to complete formalities at customs and immigration
is all that is required.
UPDATE: Dec'01 - a cruiser reported that he was given
permission on radio by port control that he could proceed directly
to the Dar Yacht Club (Masasani Bay) and to proceed by taxi the
following morning to Customs & Immigration. An American visa
for 3 months is USD$50.00
Zanzibar
06 deg 10' S, 39 deg 11' E, Admiralty chart 3211, VHF channel
16/12
A 'strange quirk' about Zanzibar is that although it is part
of Tanzania you are required to "check out" from the mainland when
you sail to Zanzibar and go through the formalities again on arrival
in Zanzibar. There are many anchorages around this 'mystical' island
but it is better on arrival to anchor directly off "Stone Town",
close to the port, to facilitate the customs and immigration formalities.
MOZAMBIQUE
Nacala
14 deg 47' S, 40 deg 68' E
Nacala is possibly the finest deepwater port in Africa although
facilities are minimal. Extremely well protected inside the port.
Anchor off a small beach 200m before the wharf. Fuel and water is
available as well as customs and immigration facilities. Basic provisions
in the small town but not advisable to leave your boat unattended
as youngsters paddle out in dugouts selling fruit, etc.
Bazaruto
The Bazaruto Archipelago is another safe hide-away on the Mozambique
coast. Follow the channel as per the chart and anchorage on sand
is on the South of Santa Carolina Island (in the middle of the bay).
In a South-westerly move further into the bay to the lee of Benguera
Island - be careful to follow the channels (the author had a crew
member up on the spreader to see the channel). It is always safer
to move on a 3/4 incoming tide in this bay. There are a number of
small holiday resorts in the area. Wonderful diving and fishing.
Supplies are available in the village of Villancoulos in the S/W
corner of the bay.
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